Published 17:43, April the 26th, 2009
Old South Philly classic moves North
SOUTH PHILADELPHIA. Shank's & Evelyn's is lifting their nearly 49 year old luncheonette lock, stock, tripe and barrel from its legendary South Philly confines to the tony environs of 15th and Sansom streets at the site of the former J.B. Pastrami's.
Since 1962 Evelyn Perri has cooked and served the finest home-style Italian food fare – roast pork sandwiches thick with sautéed spinach, veal scaloppini and eggplant dishes, the aforementioned cow stomach specialty, “tripe” – in a tiny 10th Street storefront.
Shank, Evelyn’s husband, passed away 16 years ago. But his memory lives on from the sign hanging on S&E’s front. So do the faces of other famous Italians such as Frank Rizzo and Benito Mussolini framed throughout the restaurant. But the memories won’t end Thursday when 932 S. 10th St. closes shop. They’ll just shift a bit.
“I was born in this building, upstairs above the restaurant,” says Pamela Poppa, Evelyn’s daughter. “I was practically born on mom’s grill ‘cause she didn’t want to go to the hospital to give birth. Mom was busy cooking.”
Though the 35-year-old has been working there since age 19, Poppa has officially run the restaurant since October 2008 when Evelyn broke her ankle.
Things have changed since the Perri family moved their home from above the restaurant 30 years ago. There hasn’t been the connection between the neighbors and the restaurant as there once was.
“We’ve haven’t really had neighborhood trade, believe it or not for years,” says Poppa. “A few old timers and customers that business owners in the Ninth Street Market send us, yeah. But Ninth Street changed, got more competitive, and the new people who moved into the neighborhood never came around.”
SOUTH PHILADELPHIA. Shank’s & Evelyn’s is renowned for its rich gastronomical display – a classic Italian luncheonette menu that tastes as comfortable as its 10th Street location feels.
“My favorite is my chicken cutlets” says operator Pamela Poppa of her barely-breaded, pan-fried delights. “There’s no secret to them. They’re simple. I enjoy them and we’ve gots lots of customers that love ‘em too.”
Sadly, some of Shank’s old school Italian faves like tripe and veal scaloppini – real neighborhood stuffs – won’t make the jump from block to block.
“I know, I know,” she says anticipating the dismay over the lost tripe. “Not many people eat tripe anymore. It’s not been a big seller in some time. Instead, we’re gonna try – and I know this sounds nuts — to get healthier with some wraps and some paninnis. You take off a few add a few on. We’ll feel it out.”